As Oscar Wilde wrote: "I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read on the train."
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Welcome to the Working Week
Sunday, September 27, 2009
The Hills of Connemara
Ireland has yet to cease to surprise me. Every time I set out on a trip I fall a little bit more in love with the country, and every time I declare the setting the most beautiful yet. The Aran Islands set on the sea were isolated and traditional, the Burren desolate and ancient, while Connemara felt wild and majestic, it was breathtaking, my favorite yet.
Norah and I got off the bus a little after one in Clifden on Friday. We were already excited because of the views on the bus there and Clifden proved to be a nice small mountain hamlet. For the first time I didn’t feel like I was in some Disneyworld version of Ireland. Clifden was traditional and small, and not crawling with tourists, it felt like you were home, somewhere where people actually live and not just visit. We ate at a restaurant attached to a B&B, I ate deep fried Brie, which was like the best fried cheese curd I have ever tasted, and the woman who served us flattered Norah by saying she sounded like she was from Northern Ireland. We spent the rest of our time wandering around the small village. We had decided on Clifden because they throw an Arts Festival every year and this was the week it was being held. Friday turned out to be a very quiet day for the festival. We stumbled upon an event that hadn’t been listed in the brochure when we decided to explore a church. We were able to get in for free for the tail end of a concert; it was traditional Irish music and was very beautiful. We stopped in a pub later to listen to Les Follies, a French jazz band from Paris. It was lovely; the entire time we listened I felt like I should be on a boat sailing for 1930s Paris, sort of like Porter’s Anything Goes.
We then caught the bus to Letterfrack where we spent two nights. We got there at dusk and headed straight to our hostel. The hostel was great; located in an old monastery it was eclectically decorated, filled with fun baubles from travels and was very homey. Walking in I said to Norah, “I feel like I have just entered a really great 70s commune,” you will see why from the photos. We shared a room with two lovely german girls, and met a Swedish boy who is also going to NUI-Galway. We stayed up for a bit in the living room chatting with him (I don’t know how to spell his name, he says everyone here calls him email with a soft e, but that’s not actually how it is pronounced). We found we had a lot of the similar problems and compliments of Galway, and he recommended places for us to go if we made it to Sweden. He was in town to deep sea dive at the dive center, we should see him next week at a hike so I will have to ask him how it went.
The next morning Norah and I headed out around 9:30 to start our hiking in the Connemara National Park. It was misty as we took off but we were hopeful it would lift. We wandered around the visitor center of the park for a bit, were warned not to proceed up the mountain by the rangers, and then left deciding to do it anyway. Walking the bog land of the park through so much mist was one of the most surreal feelings. We were probably the only two people hiking that early, and it felt in all the fog that we were the only two people on earth. I loved the feeling of it all, and felt pretty safe although we kept discussing the rangers’ warning. We were able to see the path clearly ahead of us and it was well marked. Though as we ascended higher we could see how visibility was becoming a problem, even more so behind us. We would turn around and the land we had hiked through would have disappeared, obliterated into a white expanse. We made it up pretty far, to the very base of the top before we decided it wasn’t worth it. Where it was exposed it was very windy and even if we made it to the top we wouldn’t be able to see anything. So we headed back down. As we descended we could see the mist had lifted from the valleys and we were able to see more. It was neat to see the land unfold before us, it was the same land we had hiked but now populated and ongoing. I imagine it was like Brigadoon, waking up from barren sweeping bog land to modernity and progress.
We were pleased with our hike and still had most of the day ahead of us, and decided to find a taxi out to nearby Kylemore Abbey. We tried a few taxi companies but none would come to Letterfrack and pick us up. We found out from the hostel manager that the abbey was only 5km, about 3 miles away, and we figured it would be an easy enough walk, heck we had practically climbed a mountain that morning, plus the manager made it seem like it was common for people to hike. So we got to the crossroads and took a right. It was a wonderful way to see more of the Connemara region, but I’ll admit not the safest. The roads run right up to the fences of the land leaving very little shoulder for us to walk on. It was not too busy but cars would come fast so we were constantly switching sides to maintain our visibility. But it felt like the perfect way to go, we were two poor college students on a holiday in Europe hiking the roads, plus I got a free souvenir, an old license plate. I would have felt pretty safe hitchhiking in the region and would have thrown out my thumb, especially on the way back, but was unsure anyone would have seen it by how fast they were going. It took us about an hour to get to Kylemore but it was well worth it. The abbey was an old summer home for a surgeon in the late 1800s but became a refuge for Irish Benedictine Nuns from Belgium after World War I (that makes a lot more sense when you know the whole history). The Abbey is still home to the nuns and the international all girl boarding school they opened up (although its closing in 2010), to help raise funds they have made certain areas of the castle open and the church, plus the gardens. It is absolutely beautiful, nestled in between the mountains and set on its own lough it was a wonderful sight, although Norah and I felt there was a certain mystery about the place. There was only one mention of the boarding school, we had no idea where the girls were kept and how so with all these tourists coming and going, and the work the nuns did for the ‘community’ was very enigmatic. There was a brief glimpse of a singing nun but otherwise nothing, very odd.
We left Kylemore, walked back and very nearly collapsed when we got into the hostel. But it was short lived as we went back in to town to buy some food to cook (I bought myself a pint can of Carlsberg, I deserved it). We cooked our food in the kitchen and read in the living room for a bit. More guests were filtering in, and a cacophony of foreign languages began, it was fun to sit next to the fire and listen. I went outside for some air to wake myself up as we wanted to go to a pub for some traditional music and was joined by one of the hostel cats, the prettiest cat I have ever seen and the nicest, brown with black tipped fur and beautiful green eyes. I sat on the ground and let it crawl all over me purring (as it nuzzled me I was reminiscent of La Dolce Vita), as some man came out of the darkness to get something from the hostel I realized what a sight I must be, a young woman playing with a cat in her knit hat and how much I probably looked like I belonged in a hostel, it was wonderful.
We did make it into town for one pint and some music. The feeling was very different from the pubs of Galway, actually more like the bars of Northern Wisconsin, all locals who greeted every one who entered and gently heckled the musicians. It was nice but I was glad to get back to the hostel and fall into bed. We checked out this morning and took the bus back to Galway. But now I’m back, sad that I have to get back to classes and have no food, nor energy to go to the grocery store and get some, but grateful to have a warm shower and no where I need to be for the rest of the day.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
UPDATE
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Greetings From The Burren
This is a long post, but as its more interesting than my last three posts combined I’m sure you will forgive me. It picks up where I left off on Friday…
After spending most of the day in our apartment due to a temperamental dryer, Norah and I decided to pop over to the pub for a pint. We chose Monroe’s because it’s a few blocks from our house, is usually pretty casual and low-key and always has live music. We had planned on sipping on one pint and then heading home, but our plans quickly changed on arrival. Monroe’s was the busiest we had seen it and with good reason they were hosting a great band, Without Charge (incidentally I found out they drink for free at the bars, and they drink a lot). I know this will sound like a harsh criticism but I mean it as a compliment, they were what I can only describe as the ultimate wedding band, a band I would gladly have play at my reception. They had a few of their own songs but they mostly stuck to covers, everything from Bob Dylan to Stevie Wonder to Stevie Ray Vaughn (for my dad: they even threw in a shout out about Kinky Friedman). I mention the wedding band thing mostly because they played a great set of funk songs, the kind of thing that would have fit in great at any reception, you know right between the father-daughter slow song and the chicken dance. Needless to say I stayed for three pints and had a great time dancing with some lovely Germans.
The next morning (Saturday) I awoke early so we could head out for the tour company. After picking up our neighbors, Sammy, Steph and Brianna, we were running a bit late. I began to get nervous as it got to be 9:15 and we didn’t have our tickets for the bus that we believed to be leaving at 9:30. But all was fine as it turned out that it didn’t leave until 10. So at 10 we boarded the bus and headed out on our full day tour to the Cliffs of Moher. Our first “destination” was a castle, although it’s closed until spring. We were allowed fifteen minutes off the bus to take a few pictures in front of it. We then began the long ride to our next stop, Doolin, where we would have lunch. Of course once we arrived there we were strongly advised to only go to the pre-approved restaurant associated with the tour as we only had forty-five minutes. There we were only allowed to choose from the carvery menu and I took this opportunity to try salmon for the first time. I really liked it, I believed it to taste like chicken (and not in that mocking sarcastic sense) but I was informed that chicken tastes nothing like salmon. Which makes sense, I mean why would you pay 15.00 for a dinner that tastes exactly like the 11.50 one, but that tells you how long its been since I have had chicken. Sammy declared it the best salmon she had eaten and it seemed pretty good quality. I unfortunately wasn’t able to eat all of it, I have to admit I had to struggle a bit to eat it at first, and it became easier as long as I didn’t look too long at it before I took a bite, but soon I began to see remnants of its grey underbelly and I started to feel a bit queasy. I was surprised that I had such a strong reaction, I don’t know if it was because I have always been a bit put off by fish or if it actually was because it had once been a living thing, although I would and will eat salmon again.
We had a bit of time after our lunch, so I went to a local shop and bought my first souvenir, a lovely silver ring. From Doolin it was a fifteen-minute ride to the Cliffs of Moher, we really lucked out on the weather, after days of grey overcast dreariness we had blue clear skies. They have done a lot of work on the Cliffs since I had been there last and with some controversy. They have added railings, keeping people farther from the edge than had previously been allowed, but the controversy was about the visitor center installed. Our tour guide called it a Teletubby building because like the dwellings of the creatures on the children’s television show it is built into the hills. It ended up costing more than had been planned to build it and at first a high parking and admissions fee was going to be put in place until the difference was made up, but after much protesting they settled on a one euro facilities fee. I don’t know how I feel about the visitor’s center, but I did buy a candy bar from the gift shop.
The cliffs were beautiful, I still feel that I liked the ones on the Inis Mor more, maybe because it took so much work to get there biking and hiking to the top, instead of just being dropped off, or maybe it was the fact that one could go straight to the edge of the cliff and look over which allowed you to really feel the magnitude and height of the cliffs, or maybe it was how crowded it was on the Cliffs of Moher, probably all three. From the cliffs we headed to Poulnabrone Dolmen, a 5,000-year-old megalithic burial tomb, we were only allowed fifteen minutes there before we headed to the last stop. The area around the burial sight, the Burren, was beautiful, but I will talk about that later. Our last stop was the Aillwee Cave, and though we didn’t have to take the tour, we all decided to pay the eight-euro fee. Our tour guide had made it sound spectacular but it was just a few stalagmites and stalactites and the otherwise standard cave tour, although the underground waterfall was kind of neat. We then headed back to Galway.
I will be honest I wasn’t too pleased with the bus trip. It wasn’t the cost, but the feeling of being on a schedule and stuck with time limits. I would rather spend time at one or two sights than rush to fit in six. But the bus did allow me to see a lot of the Burren in a short amount of time, and its actually one of the only ways to see the Burren if you don’t have a car. The landscape was gorgeous, but again seeing it from the bus wasn’t ideal. As Norah put it, it was like being in a movie, I couldn’t feel the reality of my being there. I would love to bike through that area, although I’ll have to work on my uphill skills.
I never realized the subtle variance of the landscape in Ireland. The coastal areas are beautiful, somewhat hilly but open, so like an amphitheater there are always great views. But traveling today I saw some surprising landscape like forests of towering pines that made me feel like I was back in the north woods of Wisconsin, but the Burren was something else completely. Its beautiful in exactly the opposite way one thinks of picturesque Irish scenes. I’m sure many of you are picturing lush rolling green hills and sweet seaside hamlets and there is plenty of that here as my pictures will show but the Burren is much more-- barren. Its composed of large rocky hills, the grey stone broken only by patches of grass that come in varying shades of brown and deep green. I’m sorry we never stopped where I could get good pictures of the scenery and I stopped trying to take pictures on the bus when I realized how much I was missing outside of the frame of my viewfinder. The Burren has been the most striking landscape I have seen here and I will be going back to it soon. Again I’m exhausted so that’s all for now, wish you were here.
Friday, September 18, 2009
School Daze
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Whew
Waving the White Flag
Friday, September 11, 2009
The Secret of Inis Mor
But of course I had to mess it up, it was completely my fault and could have been avoided if I was willing to be a bit immodest. I chose to be decent and try and pull down my shirt so my underwear wasn't hanging out for the walkers to blush at, but being unused to biking and not use to hand brakes I lost my balance and rammed into a wall, covered in thorny raspberry bushes. I survived and things are not as bad as they look, but I did walk away with a nasty gash on my left hand and a few cuts from thorns on my right (yes there are pictures). We were unfortunately a few kilometers away from anything and I had to ride with my hand uncomfortably perched. Norah was great about it, laughing at me the entire time (I forgot to mention I also was covered in berries when I straightened my self out). I asked a few other bikers if they had any band-aids but they simply looked at my hand in disgust and shook their heads no. We did eventually get a band-aid from some lovely women in a gift shop, they looked positively horrified as I showed it to them, probably clucking to themselves as I walked out about how worried my poor mother would be if she knew.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Day 10
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
May The Road Rise Up To Meet You
A Quick One While I'm Away
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
The Irish Gormand
Sunday, September 6, 2009
A Slow Start
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Day One and I'm Already Home
